[REVIEW] DECIEM NIOD Sanskrit Saponins

DECIEM NIOD ABC 123

DECIEM makes some of the most unique, game changing products.  Hell, if I could have created a brand I would have wanted it to be pretty similar to them.  Effective percentages of active ingredients. Selling products at a reasonable price compared to what it costs to make them. Being honest and transparent. Not spending money on excessive packaging. I wouldn’t bash other companies, but nonetheless they are producing some solid products inside and out. It’s where I would have dreamed to work in retail!

NOID is a brand under DECIEM’s umbrella. You have the Ordinary on their low end, that makes familiar sounding products with universal, solid highly effective active ingredients. I reviewed their Hyaluronic + b5 Serum earlier! NOID sits on the tippy top of their skincare. It stands for Non Invasive Options in Dermal Science. While most options in this obtusely named brand feature loads of peptide science or every weight of Hyaluronic Acid imaginable; Sanskrit Saponins is a part of their yešti collection that pays homage to traditional, raw skincare.

It’s not Sulfates, it’s Saponins

Sanskrit Saponins is a cleansing product, but not a soap, not an oil cleanser, not a face wash. It doesn’t have a familiar lather or oil to milk emulsification, instead it just kinda waters down when applied to wet skin with wet hands as instructed. If you’re wearing makeup make sure to use a cleansing oil first as this does not remove makeup.

The cleansing ingredients in this product aren’t really apparent from the INCI list. But it’s because go by ambiguous ‘extracts’. Such as Sapindus Mukurossi Fruit Extract, which is also known as ‘Indian Soapberry’ (pretty good indicator of a cleansing ingredient). It’s a brown paste that has a pretty strong yeast smell, not really that pleasant no matter how you spin it.

But what is a saponin? Saponins were ‘soap’ before ‘soap’ was sulfates or sulfate-free alternative surfactants or detergents we see today. Saponins, just like sulfates are fat soluble ingredients that when mixed with water can be removed. Meaning it mixes with our sebum, skin debris, etc lifting it into the solution and then washes away with water.

Like a gentle ‘detox’ mask.

After rinsing off Sanskrit Saponins I feel purified. My nose sebaceous buildup is usually gone, my skin feels softened and CLEAN. Not dehydrated, or robbed of moisture. I do however feel very ‘vulnerable’ and immediately follow with toner, which soaks up instantly and the rest of my hydrating arsenal. But I do really love using this product 2x a week at least, sometimes i’ll throw in a extra if i’ve been outside a lot. But it’s like a gentle clay mask with no wait time. Rinse and go.

Overall I thought I wasn’t going to care too much for this product but I ended up really loving it! It sucks for my wallet however, I got this on their black friday sale for $9USD but the regular price is $50USD! But this tube will last me quite some time.

Update: Feb 14th 2018

 I NO LONGER SUPPORT THIS COMPANY OR THEIR PRODUCTS. THE COMPANY OWNER BRANDON TRUAXE IS VILE AND ELITIST.

Until he is either removed, steps down, or takes a big glass of pride and a heavy dose of genuine empathy I don’t see myself purchasing DECIEM products again. I had 2 The Ordinary reviews that I will not be posting. The products are also going in the trash. This and my other Deciem review will stay up but have this disclaimer tagged to them.

For more information please check this post out

‘Why are People Burning the Ordinary’s Products’

‘Why is this Skincare Founder Going Rogue?’

I like to consider myself friends with the other bloggers who were mentioned in this story, @skintrovert and @ms_hannah_e and @gunshotwounds. I’ve had long conversations with all 3 about the CEOs latest actions and the saddest part is, all of us wanted to give him the benefit of the doubt. At least at one point we all defended him. But the gross racism, ex-employee allegations, and the fact most products are direct ingredients repackaged, maybe with a solvent or two is why I cannot continue to support.  Whether he may be mentally ill or disconnected from reality.

 

[First Take] The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5

Brands like the Ordinary make me worry about large cosmetic resellers like Sephora and Nordstrom. Effective, affordable, attractive. Asian Beauty brands are one thing because uneducated westerners don’t know how to really shop the products, let alone the different product types they’re used to seeing. But brands like the Ordinary and their parent company DECIEM bring a different philosophy to selling skin care that I’m all about. 

DECIEM created The Ordinary after their two core brands N.I.O.D (Non Invasive Options in Dermal Science) and Hylamide. These two brands offer more advanced formulations and other types of products such as ‘boosters’ and ‘finishers’. NIOD being their attempt at the ‘Ferrari of skincare’ provides people with incredible formulas using the latest technology in active ingredients and dermal science. You can find products from them like Sanskrit Saponins which is a pH balanced, raw saponin cleanser to actually cleanse the skin instead of stripping or purifying it has Lysine an essential amino acid to help optimize skin functionality. They tout the brand as the brand for the hyper obsessed about skin, while I agree it’s definitely a brand of it’s own class, but there’s a lot of exaggeration in the description of some of their products. The Ordinary is the ‘essence’ of these two brands, it essentially delivers  minimalist versions of some of their core brands’ products. So to better understand the differences between these 3 brands lets quick compare their 3 hyaluronic acid serums:

NIOD (top end) – Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Acid Complex – 12 forms of HA – peptide delivery system ($35/.5oz)

Hylamide – Booster – Low Molecular HA – 5 forms of HA ($20/1oz)

The Ordinary – Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 – 3 forms of HA – Panthenol ($6.80/1oz)

Kinda classist but hey, even the most expensive is NIOD at $35.00 for .5 oz you could also go to any cosmetics store and find some very basic hyaluronic acid serums for about the same price point. 

This is my first Ordinary product. I kinda forgot about reviewing it until one of my favorite coworkers asked me if I’ve tried anything from them. I got it during a black friday sale for $1.00! However the company didn’t process anything in a timely matter and it took until about a week before christmas to show up at my door. The company also failed to inform customers of the delay. No note in the package, email, or compensation. I literally just got a product a month late that I figured got stolen because it was taking so long. But awful customer service isn’t the formulators fault and they did a pretty good job themselves but it’s worth mentioning before potentially throwing money at them.

Now onto the the HA + B5…

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I was pretty impressed with what 6.80 can buy you as far as a Hyaluronic Acid serum goes. It contains HA crosspolymer to give surface hydration, as well as two lower weight forms to insure penetration and deep hydration. The Ordinary notes that when using just regular HA, because of it not being able to penetrate into our skin it can actually pull hydration from the surface of our skin and this is why they use 3 forms. HA is great at pulling that hydration in, but where does it get that hydration from? Generally we expect from the environment, but HA serums will almost always contain a decent amount of water to insure you’re ‘feeding’ that newly absorbed HA. (Also if you live someplace where it’s dry AF the HA isn’t gonna do a lot for you unless it has water to absorb in the product) It also contains Panthenol or B5 to lock in that moisture too.

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Here is the ingredient list. Just goes to show how incredibly simple they keep their products. 

Smart formulation, simple and effective. I think as people catch on to brands such as the Ordinary and CosRx we’ll see the beauty industry shifting their skincare market. High end brands have already been hustling to get new improved, more concentrated formulas out on the shelves to sway people back to loyalty. Something western brands get that most Asian Beauty brands do not get! I will definitely be trying some more products out from the Ordinary as well as NOID since this product went well for me. 

I give this HA serum a 8/10, I hope I would give the NIOD version a higher rating but comparing this to my Caudalie Resveratrol Lift Serum, I still prefer Caudalie. For comparison it has 3 forms of HA, peptides, resveratrol and a patent from Harvard University but an $88 price tag. I want to compare the NOID 12 forms to it soon. So we’ll see! HA show down?!