[REVIEW] 9Wishes Sun Moisturizer SPF50+ PA+++

We’re facing summer head on now! I’ve never been so excited for summer! Not just the warm weather (that I’ve missed since moving from CA), but also the new fresh textured products that roll out.

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One thing that’s new to me is 9Wishes! They’re a contemporary Korean brand that ‘wishes’ to provide natural, gentle, and safe products. There are actually 9 individual things they stand for, that I haven’t had translated yet! But google translate tried for me:

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nice

It’s hard finding sunscreens that are high coverage but have a nice texture, and have more than just a couple humectants thrown in as far as ‘extras’. You may not think your sunscreen needs anything more than just the sunscreen and a delivery system, but it’s definitely ideal for them to have some other benefits. The sun dehydrates our skin, with or without sunscreen. Certain sunscreen filters produce free radicals as a byproduct of converting the harmful UV rays into heat. For many, the sun and/or the activity of the filters can be irritating. In short, the sun is the devil and we can use help especially during prolonged exposure (longer than 80 minutes) and we’d need reapplication.

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9Wishes takes all of this into consideration with their Sun Moisturizer SPF50+ PA+++. With a patented ‘SM Calming Newplex-8’ ingredient complex, moisturizing and hydrating ingredients and a reapplication friendly, non-sticky finish, I found a Captain in my ‘Sunscreen Army’. Let’s take a look at these ingredients:

  • Humectants: Glycerin, Hyaluronic Acid, Sorbitan sesquioleate, Allantoin, Aloe
  • Lipids: Jojoba, Shea, Cetearyl Olivate, Olive
  • Antioxidants: Korean Red Pine, White Mulberry, Licorice Root, White Tea (sounds like a Sulwhasoo product) Niacinamide, Honeysuckle (and more)

What’s great about these antioxidants is they all will play a slightly different role in aiding you against the sun. For instance, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate is an incredible anti-inflammatory that reduces the Tyrosinase activity (forming of dark spots). White Mulberry also suppresses Tyrosinase activity. Niacinamide helps skin maintain a healthy lipid layer. I mean, this thing is really made to kick UV rays in the ass. This is important to not only start with, but keep using throughout the day. Why wouldn’t you want these great antioxidants and humectants with your reapplication? It’s definitely priced to do so, guilt free.

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One thing that I’m less than thrilled about it how many types of sunscreen go in here. While I do like the inclusion of Tinosorb S and Uvinul t 150, if they used higher amounts of these and zinc, they wouldn’t need the other 3 estrogenic filters included. But overall, this is a small complaint and doesn’t outweigh the risk of damage from unprotected sun exposure.

The finish is really soft, almost like a pore perfecting primer, without the silicone slip feeling. It doesn’t have a cast on my fair skin, but a nice iridescence. (however deeper skin tones this may show up as slight white cast).

The fragrance is nice, it isn’t really strong and definitely cuts out the smell of the lengthy list of filters. After a while you don’t really smell it anymore either.

*Big thanks to BBCosmetic and 9Wishes for providing these products in exchange for my honest review. If you haven’t checked our BBCosmetic they’re a great place to get your KBeauty fix. Great prices and best yet, free shipping to the US! Also if you wanna try this sunscreen out (or somethin’ else) you can use this promo code: “facequench8″ for 8% off your order! You can catch the 9Wishes Sun Moisturizer on sale for $13.00 for a limited time!

[REVIEW] Shiseido SUNMEDIC UV Medicated Day Protect Mild SPF 50+ PA++++

The review I’ve been waiting to write since I clicked the order button. If you read my last sunscreen post you would have read about my quest for the perfect daily sunscreen. To recap, biore watery gel was a bust. It’s a favorite for many, it sounded like the more ideal choice for me out of the two choices, but it didn’t quite live up to my expectations. Partially because of it’s filter content.

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What exactly am I looking for in a sunscreen?

  • SPF 50+ PA++++, Prone to dark spots.
  • Bioaccumulative and estrogenic filter free/ Specifically Octinoxate free, this filter accumulates in your system and is widely used. Personal preference.
  • ‘Cosmetically elegant’, It needs to feel good
  • Somewhat durable throughout the day

SUNMEDIC UV’s Medicated Day Protect in Mild seemed to fit the bill. But it wasn’t easy to find. It was actually SO hard to find, I asked Ratzilla of http://www.ratzillacosme.com to help me out. She suggested a new Anessa SPF that was more for outdoorsy use and this one. Both made by Shiseido a leader in sunscreens, I felt pretty confident I would find something I like in either of them. But I leaned towards this because I was guessing it would feel a bit better throughout the day compared to the Anessa one.

Ingredients wise, this sunscreen fights with the big dogs. It definitely kicks every American sunscreen I’ve tried in the ass. Since it’s stated ‘medicated’ in japan, it’s what is known as a ‘Quasi Drug’. What’s a quasi drug you might ask? It’s a category of cosmetics that lighten and prevent hyperpigmentation. There are set active ingredients and amounts that can be used that make a product a functional whitening cosmetic. (Remember! Whitening just refers to the rapid brightening process, not necessarily skin bleaching) The active quasi drug ingredient is Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate. Paired with Xylitol, this dream team is irritated and sensitive skin’s best friend.  Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate is a salt derived from Licorice Root. It’s clinically proven to reduce redness and irritation, as well as atopic dermatitis (eczema). Xylitol is a Natural Moisturizing Factor so it helps our skin retain moisture and hyaluronic acid.

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Shiseido gives a lot of things, a lot of names and a lot of patents. Take that however you want. One things they patented is their ‘Light Stamina’ Technology. Which is said to release UV rays into heat offering a more stable protection. Wait… isn’t that EXACTLY how chemical filter sunscreens work??? So to tell you the truth, even after extensive googling I found nothing about light stamina and why it’s patented and if it’s different that the regular filters that are converting rays into heat as it is..

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SUNMEDIC promises this sunscreen is free of any potential irritants. It’s 1. paraben free (wasn’t specifically looking for this but less is less!) 2. alcohol free (nice! a lot of ABeauty sunscreens I’ve found contain alcohol to help dry. I just find sometimes it messes with layering products) 3. Mineral oil free, I don’t need this but mineral oil is cheap and doesn’t feel super cosmetically elegant. 4. Colorant free, some colorants are SUPER pore clogging so, cool! 5. Lastly Fragrance free, unpopular opinion I love smelling smells. Most shiseido products are LOADED with perfume but SUNMEDIC is not the brand for smelly smells.

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I don’t feel it on my face. But when I put it on my face feel a nice cool feeling, not the same cool feeling Biore Watery Gel gives from it’s high alcohol content. It’s that fresh feeling you get after patting the excess essence in from the sheet mask you just pulled off. My guess is it’s either the Licorice derivative or the xylitol is really workin’.

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UPDATE: I had to translate an ingredient list from japanese.. But I got all the ingredients to match actual ingredients so I think I got it.

It leaves me feeling radiant without any noticeable white cast. I think Shiseido needs to get this sunscreen formula into a broader range of products because it’s really somethin’!

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Look at that radiance.

Holding up through the day, you’ll want to reapply before going out again. It isn’t water/sweat resistant. For everyday use water/sweat resistant sunscreens aren’t really necessary and can make the product feel more like glue less like a nice moisturizer. But even through a day of work I can still notice that ‘radiance’ I pictured above so there’s still sunscreen on my face. But those invisible filters are the ones more likely to have worn off, and those are our super defence against UV(Aging) rays.

I purchased this product through Buyee.jp  on Amazon.jp. Buyee will purchase your favorite japanese items and then ship them anywhere in the world! Amazon is affiliated with them and while yes, you can purchase items directly through Amazon with AmazonGlobal, as a big boss company they won’t ship it since it is a prohibited item in the US. Those sunscreen filters (the super safe non-estrogenic ones, not Oxctinoxate the estrogenic one allowed in the US) make this product a no-go. Rakuten Global also does not ship this item. But when you’re browsing Amazon.co.jp you’ll want to either ‘search in english’ or search it’s japanese name. There’s way too many sunmedic sunscreens and it wasn’t coming up SO I had to find it’s name that was copy/pastable (no thanks to Ratzilla’s website 😐 )  ‘サンメディックUV 薬用デイプロテクト マイルド クリーム 顔・首用 25g SPF50+ PA++++ [医薬部外品]’ [Direct Link] (you’re welcome) But Buyee as of right now offers a solution around this. All for ~800JPY or ~7USD they will purchase it, ship it to themselves, inspect the package!!, repackage it up, and ship it off to your grabby hands. I highly recommend the service, it went so smoothly, I’ll definitely be using it next time to purchase more. But the more you spend, the more cost effective the service fees get, so gets some sheet masks too! I recommend these ones (if you’re feelin’ lux) or these by LuLuLun if you’re wanting to try daily masking or just more frequent masking if you can’t get them near you at an asian market. (They’re a lot cheaper than if you buy them in an asian market here too!!)

SO?

 

[REVIEW] Bioré UV Aqua Rich Watery Gel (FEB 2017 REFORMULATION)

Comfortable and water resistant are like polar opposites. The more water resistant something is, generally the more it feels like you superglued a sheet mask to your face.

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Biore has reformulated their two best sellers this February and I’m here to tell you about the Watery Gel refomulation! Now it’s water/sweat resistant!

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After trying the Biore UV Bright Milk I knew I wanted that same coverage that saved me from the brutal California sun. However, the way it matte downs is just a little too much for my dry skin so the search was on for something with the same ultimate sun coverage but maybe sat a little nicer for everyday.

The two suspects I wanted to pull in for questioning were Biores own “watery Gel” and Shiseido’s Senka Aging Care UV. Shiseido was just as easy to get here and half the price, but it’s a much older formula. It’s very easy to find the previous version of the Watery Gel for about the same price of the Shiseido SPF.  I appreciate brands that have best sellers that they want to improve on! So unfortunately if you were looking for a comparison vs the old. I sadly cannot help you there. However ingredients wise, it’s nearly identical.

While it’s main purpose is to protect, it contains Hyaluronic Acid, Xylitol, and Royal Jelly to Hydrate and moisturize. Alcohol is the second ingredient to help absorption and you can faintly smell it. I’ve noticed some warmer days it leaves me reaching for my Dr. Dennis Gross C + Collagen Set & Refresh Mist for some moisture. It’s strange because you can tell the product is /trying/ to hydrate. But the uniqueness of the 2017 formula is that it is now sweat resistant it contains a few high performance polymers. The application doesn’t feel heavy, but you can feel it slightly for a few minutes. After the product has dried and flexed around some it’s texture is smooth and not matte or dewy. Just kinda the same!

One deal breaker for many, (but not ya boy who matches to like… NC.0000002) is the cast of this product. On Rakuten it’s states as a ‘optical correction powder’ but I got my money on it’s just the Titanium Dioxide. This makes me wonder how many names brands have marketed it as some sort of ‘glow’ or ‘correcting’ powder. One thing I’ve noticed with how the sunscreen applies, it really doesn’t like to go on top of gel moisturizers. I got a ever so slightly streaky application after waiting 10minutes before applying it on top of Primary Raw Azulene Gel and then on a separate occasion also with Erborian Bamboo Creme Frappe. This sucks because my morning routines have been very low maintenance for the sake of compatibility with high(er) performance sunscreens.  It seems to do better with something slightly creamier but not too rich. Think, Caudalie Vinosource Moisturizing Sorbet.

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There are a few things I enjoy about the sunscreen. Consistency is fluid (contrary to the speckled look) but not too liquidy application. It took some trial and error but I found I get the best application to take a small amount in my palms and apply it quickly swiping.

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That second ingredient, alcohol, comes through with a subtle cooling effect when applying. Most people scoff at this ingredient, especially being so high. But alcohol, has a great roll here. It helps dry the sunscreen to helps the filters absorb, polymers, acylates and friends to adsorb. Better than any other ingredient. But isn’t it bad for you? Well… Through my teachings and own research on the subject alcohol is really only ‘bad’ undiluted direct to skin, or in high concentrations applied to dry skin. (You use this sunscreen directly after washing your face with dish soap) For more info futurederm has some great credible information on SD Alcohol (cosmetic great denatured alcohol, that’s in here, I don’t think I mentioned that part)

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Does my hand look ‘Optically Corrected’? It does look dewy!

Did I find a new everyday sunscreen? Unfortunately, no. While it may work for many as such, and I’m fine using it as such, I have my issues with it. Hit or miss application aside, something that bothers me about many of these super sunscreens are the high(er) octinoxate amounts. I was unaware of the exact percentages of really anything before I purchased it. I don’t want to scare people out of the ingredient like most blogs try to do. I’m not chucking this sunscreen out the window and chanting cleansing rituals to rid myself of the potential cancer. But I did order a very awesome sounding sunscreen from Amazon.jp -> Buyee.jp -> me that does NOT contain Octinoxate but still provides SPF50+ PA++++. I actually had to ask the help of RatZilla of Ratzillacosme.com for help finding this sunscreen, the Queen of Sunscreens.

If you’re scratching your head to why I’m concerned about an extra + sign, PA rating is a easy to understand way to rate a sunscreen’s UVA(ging) protection. Still scratching? Start with my SPF 201 post to quickly learn the basics of sun protection. Well since the only thing available in the US markets are PA+++ I want that FULL UVA protection. While a very very few sunscreens in the US market exist that will actually rate a PA++++ when tested but stated as PA+++ to calm the FDA down, they are very few and not the best formulas regardless. In markets where PA++++ exists, they almost all contain Octinoxate. It’s documented as safe, it’s cheap, and it works well. OKAY BUT WHY DON’T I WANT IT? Octinoxate is a known endocrine disruptor and while isn’t proven to be unsafe long term. It has not been proven to be safe long term. One unique thing about this filter is that it accumulates in our system. That is the reason I personally want to be staying away from octinoxate on a daily basis. I will have ZERO issues slathering Watery Gel all over my body every 90 minutes (WOW, I also didn’t mention this bad boy is sized for face & body) while I’m at the beach! But do I feel good applying it everyday with what I know about it? Not so much. There are some brands that advertise full protection with just mineral SPF. But in order for mineral sunscreen to reach past the minimum rating it needs to be L O A D E D with mineral.

Take a look at this sunscreen simulator, I found you needed roughly (extremely) 40% mineral SPF when using the maximum amount of Zinc Oxide (25%) to achieve a high enough PPD rating it would produce a Japanese PA++++ rating based on the 2.0mg/cm application amount which is standard.

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That’s a lot of mineral on your face! Part of my goal in this quest for finding my perfect everyday sunscreen is to find one I feel is genuinely comfortable. My experiences with high mineral content has never been a ‘cosmetically elegant’ one.

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Back to Biore though, I do like this sunscreen. Maybe not as much as I hoped but instead of finding a spot in my everyday routine I think it may have found a place in my backpack for hiking.